Tuesday, May 15, 2007

WARNING: Do Not Dance In Morocco

cat chilling on a cushy chair in Essaouira

Morocco is making a strong bid towards becoming one of my favorite countries in the world. The people are incredibly friendly, incredibly warm, and always giving themselves. Saying you're from the US can sometimes generate a strong amount of anti-American sentiment. And in a country which is 99% Muslim, I was wondering if that would be the case here. But for the most part, it's been the total opposite.
wizard welcoming committee
The people here know that it's not the Americans travelling the country who are bad, but it's the governments. All of them, not just America. It nearly brings a tear to my eye everytime a shopkeeper tells me this.....and then of course they try to sell you something you have absolutely no use for. But still, they judge you for who you are (and maybe judge you for your wallet), not where your from. It's too bad our government doesn't travel, and technically, bombing third world countries doesn't count.
blue door
blue boats
green boat, oops
If you're a travel slut like I am and you haven't yet been to Morocco, put it on the top of your list. It's a treat for all your senses.
The smell of spices in the air in the souqs (markets) of the medina (the old, walled medieval quarter).
chili, cumin, coriander and something white
The taste of tajines, stews slow cooked in clay pots, incredible couscous, and courtesy of French colonization, delicious bread and pastries.
the incredible food stalls in Djeema el-Fna square in Marrakech. Perhaps the liveliest square in the world filled with musicians, dancers, acrobats, snake charmers, story tellers, henna tattooers, artists, pickpockets, scam artists, hustlers, and my favorite, food stalls.

They have the most incredible artisans here. Intricate and decorative tilework.
ceramics on display
ornate doors galore
spice market in Marrakech
and of course rugs and fabrics
hey, don't turn your back on me. I know I have no money, but I'll take a loan out to buy the big red one.
6 to 1 ratio of rugs to people in Morocco
And last but not least, the sounds. They have some of the most incredible musicians I've ever seen or heard. Impromptu drum circles pop up with beautiful spontaneous singing and dancing. The music I've heard seems to be a combination of Andalucian-Moroccan strumming, African tribal beats, and full on energy. And oh Allah-Shallah-Akba, can these people dance! Not since seeing Brazilians break out in samba have I witnessed hip shaking so technically proficient, so mesmerizing, and so fast that it'll make your eyes pop out of their sockets. No wonder why belly dancing originates from here. But if someone asks you to dance, a word of warning - DON'T DO IT!
the electricity of Djeema el-Fna at night
They are just too damn good. Technically smooth, rhythmically soulful, and the ability to hit the beat, the off-beat, the quarter-beat, the off-off-off beat, and beats that only exist in chaos theory mathematics. And somehow they make it look so smooth and easy. I danced with this one Moroccan girl, and it was like playing Kobe Bryant in basketball. She just made me look silly. It's one thing to bring to the game good dribbling skills, good court presence and a nice jump shot. But when she danced moves equivalent to a killer crossover, 360 degree between the legs, in your face slam dunk, it was enough head faking to twist my ankles. But I'm a glutton for punishment, so I stayed out there till the end even if the final score would have been 115-2.
But don't follow my lead. It's better to stay on the sidelines and be a wallflower.
consider yourself warned
But for something you can really sink your teeth into........
Dónde está Ché Pelotas?

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